A summer recipe: Montirius rosé July 2024
Elmo (and Anna K) love biodynamic Rhone rosé.
Fragile like dried flowers. Delicate, lacy. There are no cherries here. Absent the punchy fruit of redder rosés, closer in character and color to white wine.
What to cook with Muse Papilles rosé.
We import European wine, and love the cuisines of France and Germany and Austria and Italy. But let’s face it, in summer our hearts and stomachs turn to the myriad flavors of Italia. A pristine French rosé can ably accompany our favorite frutti di mare fantasies.
Method.
Pick some fresh herbs. Thyme is essential. Rosemary. Mince it. A little fresh oregano or basil (julienned) is fine too. Melt a few tablespoons of beurre de baratte (or other sea salt butter) in a large metal pan. When the butter is quite hot, add 1/2lb. of very fresh sea scallops. Don’t turn them! Brown for two minutes per side, then remove to a plate. Generously salt with Maldon. Add EVOO to the pan, enough to coat the bottom. Add 1 lb. of peeled, head-on shrimp. Turn them as soon as they color. Pluck shrimp from the pan as they are barely cooked through: don’t turn them into rubber! Add a splash more oil. Place a 1 lb. speckled trout filet in the pan, skin-side down. Cook it undisturbed until the skin gets crisp, or until the filet is visibly mostly cooked through. I like to spoon some of the hot pan oil over the top of the trout as it cooks. After 5-7 minutes max. remove the trout from the pan and set aside with the other seafood.
Adjust oil if necessary. Over low-medium heat, add four cloves smashed and minced garlic, one minced shallot, and a minced spicy red pepper. You can sub red pepper flakes if you prefer. Sautee for a couple of minutes, making sure not to brown the garlic. Add a pint of quartered cherry tomatoes and the herbs. Cook until the tomatoes start to release their juices. Add a splash of Muse Papilles rosé if the mixture looks too dry.
Boil 1 lb. spaghetti or chitarra, preferably Paolo Petrilli brand. When the pasta is edging toward al dente, dump it in the skillet with the veg. Add a half cup of cooking water and the cooked seafood. Stir everything together. Once the pasta has finished cooking to a pleasant texture and has absorbed the water (2-3 minutes) add a few tablespoons of olive oil. Real small farm oil is an essential ingredient, and will change the fundamental quality of this and other dishes. Salt to taste with Maldon or fleur del sel, and serve. Garnish with additional herbs if it makes things more pretty.
Serve with baguette, creamy side cheeses, and a bowl of sauteed zucchini, if you are feeling ambitious.
Grocery list:
A bunch of mixed fresh herbs, your choice (thyme is essential)
8T beurre de baratte or sea salt butter of your choice
8T extra virgin olive oil from a small organic farm
A mix of fresh local seafood. I suggest ½ lb. sea scallops, 1 lb. head-on shrimp, and 1 large filet of speckled trout, skin sliced at 1cm intervals.
*Other firm white fish is great, also clams or mussels are perfect. Clean em!
4 cloves garlic
1 red pepper or red pepper flakes
1 shallot
1 pint ripe small summer tomatoes, datterini or sun gold or similar
1 bag Paolo Petrilli brand pasta, or similar long noodle
Optional fancy side cheese, bread, and/or contorni. Liberally seasoned zucchini works great.
I used Paolo Petrilli mezzi paccheri. I’m a maverick. Also I love when they nest inside each other.